![]() Never remove a plug lead from a running engine with this system. The spark plugs must be connected and grounded, otherwise the module could be damaged when it fires. This is incorrect, a point verified in a phone call to Euro MotoElectrics. One important note: The otherwise excellent and detailed installation manual says to remove the spark plug caps before adjusting the trigger wheel. After locking the trigger wheel in place, a check with a timing light showed we were absolutely spot on. Continue to rotate until the light just goes out. Installing the module was straightforward and ignition timing was a cinch: With the engine on top dead center, slowly rotate the trigger wheel clockwise until the gap in the wheel passes the sensor and the red light on the sensor board illuminates. An optional 9-curve module is also available. Curve 2 is for dual-plug heads and provides 28 degrees advance and Curve 3 (which is what we used) is in the middle, providing 32 degrees advance and a slower advance rate than Curve 1. Curve 1 is the default and provides 34 degrees of advance. To aid routing, we cut a relief in the grommet for the charging wires and ran the sensor wires alongside them, making sure they wouldn’t be pinched when the front cover was installed. The trigger and sensor are easy to install and the sensor wires route out the top of the front cover. i am hoping that if i get the vacuum lines in the right place it will solve the issues of low power at high speed.This isn’t a difficult project, but it does require patience. Timing marks stamped on harmonic pulley make little sense with zenon strobe and first cylinder activating light o/t is a 2Oclock, and Z mark even further around? No where near the engine mark below the edge of the bracket that holds the factory fitted tdc electronic sensor for the bmw diagnosics kit. At idle it runs at about 800 rpm but higher than 2000 rpm it starts to lack power and acceleration. Possibly did not initially get the oil pump and distributor drive on the correct tooth! Tried to adjust timing by slackening off disrtibutor and turning it to get best ignition, advancing ignition by turning distributor body anti clockwise then turned slightly back and car runs with fair pick up and throttle response but not happy with current performance. ![]() To get the timing correct I hand cranked engine to tdc, Triple checked timing marks on engine casing to crank and the timing mark of camshaft pulley to its marks, and removed spark plug 1 to check tdc, took cap off distributor and confirmed position of rotor arm to spark plug no1, checking it was on compression and ignition stroke not exaust. Our car is a 520i 1983 49000 miles, the Engine m20 b20 straight six, ljetronic, 2lt, bosch distributer with retard advance and electronic pick up to bosch spark controller, sorry if any of that is not quite right but hopefully you get the jist. (When i took it apart only one hose was attached to the front tube and along its length it had been strangled with a tight cable tie! By a previous mechanic So i have little confidence this was right! Not having the right tubes attached is probably spoiling the ignition timing, unfortunately the Haines manual is not very helpful. ![]() In addition where do the vacuum pipes attach on the inlet manifold. There is a forward facing tube and a rear facing tube. ![]() I really need a bit of help identifying how many vacuum lines should go back onto the vacuum advance, which side of the advance is used? Hi, firstpost i have really struggled to get the car back on the road after cylinder head rebuild to replace the split valve seals.
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